Mullet Creek’s Secret Waterfalls

Monday October 12, 2015

Mullet Creek contained a couple of surprise waterfalls and an old dam in the short section we hiked.  It originates in Meadowvale north of the 407  and empties into the Credit River on the University of Toronto Mississauga campus.  It was a gorgeous long weekend and Thanksgiving Monday was a beautiful day for a brief hike before getting the turkey in the oven.  We parked on O’Neil Court and entered the woods through the community walkway.

Reginald Watkins bought 150 acres of land in 1928 north of the now abandoned Erindale Power Dam.  He tore down one house on the property and enlarged the other which was named Lislehurst.  In 1965 The University of Toronto bought the property and founded Erindale College which is now called University of Toronto Mississauga.  The section of park backs onto the university campus and contains the remains of an old out building at the crest of the hill overlooking the ravine.  It appears that a series of trial excavation holes have been dug to investigate the ruins.

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A long thin promontory of land provides access to the creek level.  We followed it down to where Mullet Creek winds it’s way through the ravine and on to the Credit River nearby. The creek splits into sections in the ravine and we crossed each in turn as we made our way north along the valley floor.

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There are over 30 varieties of periwinkle.  As an invasive species they grow aggressively, often choking out native plant life.  They are frequently recommended for partially shaded areas or places where growing plants is difficult.  Care must be taken because they can escape and take hold in the wild.  One plant can spread to an area 8 feet across.  They normally bloom in late April to early May but we found a stray splash of periwinkle blue in the undergrowth.

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An old steam boiler lies rusting away at the side of Mullet Creek.  It would have originally stood on four metal feet on the bottom.  The lower half contained the fire box and was open on the opposite side to this picture.  The front flue sheet contains the holes that the flues passed through and is matched by a second flue sheet on the back.

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Mullet Creek is crossed by the double span of Burnhamthorpe Road.  A recent assessment was done for this bridge as well as sister bridges over the Credit River just east of here.  Original construction had created bridges where the sidewalks were too small to be properly functional. The study was completed to address several concerns.  At just .838 metres high, the guard rail on the river edge of the sidewalk was considered too low for safety.  The proposal was to increase this rail to 1.4 m.  There was also no rail between the sidewalk and road and so a second rail was proposed on the curb side.  The sidewalk was to be increased from 1.7 to 3 metres wide to allow cyclists and pedestrians to safely pass.  Look-out platforms were also created. This was accomplished by widening the road deck on the outside of the bridge.  The west bound span is seen from the creek level in the picture below.

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Just beyond the Burnhamthorpe bridge lie the remains of an old dam.  Original wooden sections remain submerged in the water behind later concrete forms while the pre-cast concrete blocks on the top were added later still.

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Prior to the arrival of Europeans, Atlantic Salmon were common in Lake Ontario and spawned in the Credit River every fall.  Due to pollution, dams, over-fishing and deforestation they were basically eliminated by the 1890’s.  In the 1960’s and 1970’s Chinook and Coho Salmon were introduced from the Pacific coast.  Chinook Solmon make their only spawning run when they are 4 years old and then die afterward.  This male Chinook has developed the characteristic hooked jaw called a kype and the darker colour of his one and only run upstream.  They can usually grow to lengths of 3 feet and weights of 25 pounds.  This specimen was caught by a young fellow named Jack who was fishing with his family.

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As you walk up Mullet Creek toward Mississauga Road you come to several shelves of shale where the water cascades over the edge.  The picture below was taken just one bend in the creek prior to the cover photo which has a larger drop.  These two little water falls make an oasis in the heart of the city.

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At one time a parkette stood at the corner of the creek and Mississauga Road.  The remains of the old parking area are starting to grow over but the old rail ties that outline the side and protect the trees in the middle will be around for many years to come.

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Mullet Creek extends from here to north of the 407 and must contain other interesting places. Time will tell.

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Maple Leaf Gardens

April 20, 2024

Maple Leaf Gardens was home to The Toronto Maple Leafs from 1931 until 1999 during which time they won the Stanley Cup 11 times. Unfortunately none of these was in the last 32 seasons they played there. Previously, The Leafs had been playing in Arena Gardens on Mutual Street which had been built in 1912. When the capacity of 7,500 people was deemed to be too small by the teams managing director Con Smythe he went looking for a site to build a more impressive arena for the team. He eventually settled on the corner of Church and Carlton Streets which he bought from The T. Eaton Company for $350,000. The map below shows the site as it existed in the 1893 Goads Fire insurance Map.

This picture was taken from the historic display board that is inside the front entrance to the facility as it stands today. It shows the building early in the construction phase.

A 12,473 seat facility was designed by the architectural firm of Ross and Macdonald. The construction contract was awarded to Port Credit company Thomson Brothers Construction. They had been the lowest of ten bidders coming in at $990,000 with an additional $100,000 for steel work. Construction began on June 1, 1931 and was completed in just 5 months and 2 weeks. Where are these people when we need a crosstown subway line built? The final cost was $1.5 million, or $25.9 million in 2021 dollars. The image below shows the building under construction and was taken from the Wikipedia article about the building.

The archive photo below shows the building in 1934 and was taken from the same display board inside the front entrance to the modern building. It shows the older homes that still remained beside the arena. These would have been on the map shown above.

The first game in Maple Leaf Gardens was played on November 12, 1931 with the Toronto Maple Leafs hosting the Chicago Blackhawks. This postcard shows the inside of the stadium on that night. Unfortunately the Leafs lost that first game 2-1 to the Blackhawks. The image below shows the opening ceremonies for the building and was taken from the Wikipedia article.

Over the years Maple Leaf Gardens played host to many events including the Ice Capades and a ton of Rock Concerts. Elvis Presley played there on April 2, 1957 and The Beatles on Sept. 7, 1964. Almost every major act played here on their way across North America. I saw my first Rush concert here in November 1982 on their “Signals” tour. It was so good that I saw them again Sept. 1984, March 1986, March 1988, May 1990, Dec. 1991, and May 1994. Rush recorded a concert video of the 1984 “Grace Under Pressure” tour in which I can be seen briefly in a crowd view during the song “The Spirit Of Radio.” These were probably the best seats I had for any concert at The Gardens. I went to at least 25 other concerts here over the years including more than one by each of Jethro Tull and Triumph. Oasis became the last concert to be held at the arena on April 29, 2000.

I also went to several games in the 1999 and 2000 Toronto Rock seasons and watched them win the National Lacrosse Championship both of those seasons. The 2000 Toronto Rock Championship game became the final professional event to be held at Maple Leaf Gardens. The Toronto Maple Leafs played their final game in The Gardens on Feb. 13, 1999 before moving to Air Canada Centre. They lost 6-2 to the Chicago Blackhawks putting loosing bookends on their 67 year run.

After the final events in Maple Leaf Gardens, the facility sat empty for almost a decade as the owners refused to sell it to anyone who might use it in competition with Air Canada Centre. The Gardens was purchased in 2004 by Loblaws for $12 million dollars under an agreement that it wouldn’t be used for sports or entertainment. In 2009 Loblaws partnered with Toronto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson University) to create a Loblaws grocery store and an athletic facility for the university.

The interior of the old stadium was gutted and new floors were laid for the grocery store and LCBO that went on the ground floor. A red dot was placed on the floor to indicate the original centre ice from the hockey arena. This store opened on November 30th 2011. A second floor was added and an NHL size rink was put in on the third floor along with a fitness centre. Seating for the new rink consists of 2,796 seats from the original arena. The Mattamy Athletic Centre at The Gardens opened September 9, 2012. The image below shows the rafters where the scoreboard for the NHL games used to hang above centre ice. Tons of speakers and lighting equipment were also suspended here for the various concerts that were held over the last five decades of the 20th century.

Maple Leaf Gardens stands as a monument to Toronto sports and entertainment and lives on as a Loblaws, fitness centre and university ice rink. I have a lot of fond memories of events at The Gardens but unfortunately, being in my early 60s means that I am too young to have witnessed a Stanley Cup victory there.

Perhaps this year will be the year that the Maple Leafs have a successful Stanley Cup run!

Google Maps link: Maple Leaf Gardens

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Enoch Turner Schoolhouse

April 6, 2024

The oldest standing schoolhouse in Toronto was built in 1848 just five years after York changed its name to Toronto and became a city. The population of the city stood at about 25,000 and some of the poorest people lived in the St. Lawrence Ward which is seen in the map below. This image is taken from the 1884 Goads Fire Insurance Map of Toronto. Trinity School, as it was then known, is circled in green. Also featured in this story are the East Toronto Brewery (blue) and Little Trinity Church (orange).

Enoch Turner was born in Stafforshire, UK in 1792 and came to York early in the 19th century. He established a brewery in the area of Parliament and Front streets which is shown as the East Toronto Brewery in the map above. There were a lot of Irish immigrants in the area that came from County Cork in Ireland and this is the basis for the name Corktown as this neighbourhood became known. In 1846 Canada passed the “Act for the better establishment and maintenance of Common Schools in Upper Canada”. Toronto was unwilling to introduce a tax to support schools and so all schools that benefitted from public support were closed for a year following this. These were hard times for the poor in Toronto and Enoch Turner had a heart to educate the children in the area surrounding his brewery. He provided funding to build a school on land provided by Little Trinity Church.

It is thought that the school was designed in the Gothic Style at the same time as Little Trinity Church by local architect Henry Bowyer Lane. This architect also designed City Hall and St. Lawrence Market. When the school opened in 1849 there were 240 students and Enoch paid all expenses to operate it for 3 years. At the time it was known as Ward Street School. Thus it became the first free school in Toronto and spurred the development of a free school system in the province. When it was taken over by the Toronto Board of Education in 1851 it was renamed Trinity Street School.

The school only operated until 1859 when students were moved to the Palace Street School which we described in our post Canary Restaurant. The building was then turned over to Little Trinity Church who used it as a Sunday School and Parish Hall.

The side door features four highly ornate hinges, knocker and latch.

The addition on the west end of the building was completed in 1869. A second addition on the south side of the building was made in 1910. The building was used as a recruitment centre in 1899 for the Boer War. A soup kitchen was operated out of the structure during the Great Depression in the 1930s where meals were served to 1500 people each week. It was also used as a base for servicemen during both World Wars.

A fire broke out in Little Trinity Church in 1961 and the church was used as a meeting hall while repairs were made. Following this, the building fell into disrepair and was threatened with demolition.

On October 8, 1970 the Enoch Turner Schoolhouse Foundation was established to try and save the building. Extensive renovations were completed and in 1972 it was opened as a museum. In 2008 the building was turned over to the Ontario Heritage Trust. Part of the Little Trinity Church can be seen to the left in the picture below. The story of that building can be found in our post Gooderham Architecture.

The building has stood for over 175 years and can be rented for weddings and private events. More importantly it stands as a testament to one man’s vision for free education for the poor children in his community.

Related stories: Gooderham Architecture, One Room Schools, Canary Restaurant

Google Maps Link: Enoch Turner Schoolhouse

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Shanty Bay Go Karts

March 16, 2024

For years we used to stop at the entertainment facility just north of Barrie on highway 11 as we made our way back home from Gravenhurst. Usually we would grab a coffee or a snack from McDonalds but this section of the highway used to be known for cheaper gasoline. Therefore, if we had seen cheaper gas on the route north we might stop on the way back home to fill up. The image below shows the site from the air and indicated the location of the Go-Kart Track, the Kids Track, The Coffee Time, McDonalds and the Shell gas station. Other blogs online suggest that the business was closed as a result of Covid restrictions. However, when you look at the historic images on Google Earth there haven’t been cars in the parking lot or on the track since 2016. Reliable information seems to be hard to come by online.

The entrance stands empty and the ticket booth has been boarded up for years now. You used to have to but tickets for individual laps and hand them to the attendant between each round on the track.

The one-kilometre long track loops around itself and speeds of kilometres per hour were advertised. A loop could be done in as little as a minute and a half and cost $5.00. Five laps could be had for $20.00. To ride the adult track you had to be at least 11 years old and 52 inches tall. There were 30 carts, some single seaters and some double. There was also a small mini track with a single cart for those too young to go on the adult track.

The rules are still posted near the gate. They also give the conditions that riders from 8-11 years old must meet. They had to be at least 48″ tall. The kids track is 1/4 kilometre long and has a maximum speed of 16 kilometers per hour. Children between 3 and 8 years old could ride for free as a passenger in a two seater adult kart. Children under three cannot ride on the tracks.

The most prominent feature on the mini golf course is the volcano. The mini golf is getting badly over-run and the carpet on the greens is falling apart.

A Coffee Time drive through used to operate on the north end of the building.

The menu sign is broken away except for one panel announcing a new treat called Maple French Sticks.

A Shell gas station used to operate at the front of the building.

There was also a McDonalds restaurant on the south end of the building for those who wanted a meal either during their stay or just a snack while stopping for gas.

It’s too bad that this facility isn’t operating anymore because over the years thousands of people enjoyed a spin around the track.

Related Stories: North Halton Kart Club

Google Maps Link: Shanty Bay Go Carts

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Uxbridge Historical Centre

Saturday, March 9, 2024

The Uxbridge Historical Centre was founded in 1972 and was created around the Quaker Hill school house. It is home to ten buildings and a large number of artifacts that combine to tell the local history of the township and the town of Uxbridge.

When Uxbridge township was opened up for settlement a lot of the early pioneers were Quakers. These members of The Society of Friends came from Pennsylvania along the newly created Yonge Street. Twelve families started to carve out a new life for themselves in 1804. Soon they started to make plans to build a Meeting House for themselves. In 1809 they built their first Meeting House out of logs and replaced it with a frame building in 1820. This was the only church in the township for nearly a generation. Meetings were held in this building until 1925 and it holds the distinction of being the oldest building in Uxbridge Township.

At the same time as they built the first Meeting House they acquired the plot across the road for a cemetery. This was the only cemetery in the area for a decade and has some early grave markers made from local granite.

The home known as the Gould-Carmody house was built in the late 1850s in the area of town that currently is home to the arena. It was built by Joseph Gould who was the first local MPP. He was very influential in the development of the town of Uxbridge. His family sold the home to William Carmody in 1914 and it was moved to its present site in 1988. The decorative bargeboard, or gingerbread, along with the finial at the peak, give the home a distinctive appearance.

The Scott Township Municipal Hall was built in 1860 and served the town council until 1967. After this time, the wood frame building was moved to the farm of Ed and Dorothy Brown and used as a Country Heritage Museum. It was moved to the Uxbridge Historical Centre in 1993. The front entrance has windows on either side which contain 12 over 12 window sashes. The door itself is modest but has pilasters on either side and a lighted transom over the top.

The United Church on site was moved from the west end of lot 16, where it stood closer to Goodwood. It was built in 1870 and dedicated on December 14th. Originally it was a Methodist Episcopal Church and was part of the Uxbridge circuit. It was known either as Forsythe’s or Russell’s Church. In the 1880s the Methodist churches recognized that they had several different types of congregations that basically held the same beliefs with minor variations. They were investing resources to compete with each other for congregants and missions funding and decided that it made sense to unify. The Primitive Methodists and the Episcopal Methodists joined together with the Wesleyan Methodists to become the Methodist Church in 1884. This building then went under the Goodwood circuit. In 1925 the Methodist, Congregationalists and some of the Presbyterian Churches joined together to create the United Church of Canada. After that, the church was known as Fifth Line United Church until it closed in 1966. It was moved to its present location in 1979.

There are many historical pieces of farming equipment that are located on the property and in the various barns and sheds.

The Hilson Shed was built in the 1800s in Uxbridge and was used as a coach house or carriage shed. It was home to the Hilson family horses, carriage and tackle until they were replaced with a family car. It has been part of the Uxbridge Heritage Centre since 1973.

The Nesbitt family drive shed was located on their farm and used by several generations of the family. It has the distinction of having been on the farm that was used for filming seven seasons of Road To Avonlea. This show was based on books that were written by Lucy Maude Montgomery who also wrote Anne of Green Gables. It was disassembled in 1981 and reassembled on the grounds of the Heritage Centre. A sawmill that was located on the same farm was moved to Black Creek Pioneer Village.

This Edwardian styled house was built in town in 1908 for George Stokes. George was a councilor, deputy reeve and later reeve. The house was later sold to George and Nellie Kydd. In 1963 Nellie became the first female mayor in Uxbridge. The house has a unique two story porch along the front and was moved to the Centre in 2002. It now houses the offices and gallery shop.

The Uxbridge Post Office Bell was donated to the town on its centennial anniversary by Bell Canada on Aug. 26, 1972. It was forged by Jim Taylor in England in 1912.

The school is the nucleus for the historical centre and is the third one to be built in Quaker Hill. The first school was built in 1817 by Quaker Ezekial James and was made out of logs. It was the first school in Uxbridge Township. It was located just a short distance south of the present school. It was replaced in the 1850s with a frame building that stood where the present driveway for the school is. The brick school was built in 1924 and served the community until 1969. The two doors were used to allow the boys and girls to have separate entrances so that the boys wouldn’t see the girls ankles when they were changing their shoes as this was considered improper.

The print shop is not an historical building as it was built on site in 1994. It was erected to house the historical printing equipment from the Uxbridge Printing Company. The large square front is known as the Boomtown Style and was used to make small buildings look bigger. It also hid the front gable and allowed the merchant to have more space to advertise their business.

The buildings are open for tours in the summer months and some of them, like the school, can be rented for functions.

Related stories: Cober Dunkard Church, Black Creek Pioneer Village, Markham Museum, Georgina Pioneer Village, Thomson Memorial Park

Google Maps Link: Uxbridge Heritage Centre

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Upper Beamer Falls

Feb. 24, 2024

John Beamer was born in Greenwich Township, New Jersey on November 27th 1759. He emigrated to Upper Canada in 1790 and took up 300 acres of land along the Niagara Escarpment near Grimsby. He passed away on February 9th. 1854 in his 94th year. A ripe old age for those days when hard, dangerous work and lack of medical attention often carried people away at much younger ages. His property included 40 Mile Creek and featured the place where it makes its decent over the escarpment. This water fall now bears his name.

The image below is taken from the 1877 County Atlas and shows the Beamer properties as related to the town of Grimsby. Beamer Falls is circled.

Elizabeth Simcoe was the wife of Upper Canada’s first Lieutenant Governor, John Graves Simcoe. She was known for her landscape paintings and the extensive diary that she kept. These combine to give some detailed insights into the area in the 1790s. Her diary entry for May 18, 1794 reads in part: “We coasted to the Forty Mile Creek forty miles from Niagara and passed in at three o’clock. The mouth of this creek forms a fine scene; a very bold spur of high land appears beautiful in the distance. It is about three miles off.” This describes the escarpment where the creek flows over forming Beamer Falls. During my visit the creek was frozen over above the falls.

Beamer Falls has a washboard formation and a drop of 45 metres. The crest is 20 metres wide.

There is a short trail along the north side of 40 Mile Creek that leads to Beamer Memorial Conservation Area. This 450 metre trail is a side trail to the Bruce Trail and is marked with blue blazes.

The area was the floor of a tropical sea that existed over 400 million years ago. Sediment accumulated and eventually created the Niagara Escarpment and the 40 Mile Creek ravine that we see today. Erosion following the last ice age, about 12,000 years ago was greatly enhanced by the flow of water created by the melting glaciers as the ice retreated. Alternating layers of dolostone and sandstone have been left and the dolostone is much more erosion resistant that the sandstone. This creates the steps that can be seen in the waterfall.

The trail follows 40 Mile Creek to an intersection with the Bruce Trail in Beamer Memorial Conservation Area. Starting in Queenston and running to Tobermory the Bruce Trail runs for over 890 kilometres. There are also over 400 kilomtres of side trails, such as this one. Many people record the sections of trail as they complete them so that they can get awarded end-to-end badges for each of the nine sections. When all sections have been completed you can get an end-to-end badge for the entire trail. I have a map and am in the process of highlighting various hikes but am nowhere near completing a section, let alone the entire trail. And, I’ve been at it for decades. But, then again, I’m all over the place when it comes to exploring.

Lake Ontario can be seen in the distance. This is the opposite view to what Elizabeth Simcoe described 230 years ago, although the forest cover is much different today than it was back then.

The falls have a moderate amount of water at this time of year but can be much more spectacular after a heavy rainfall when they carry a lot bigger flow. There’s parking off Ridge Road in two separate little lots that allow you to easily access the falls.

Beamer Memorial Conservation Area has several interconnected trails, including the Bruce Trail and will likely be the focus of a future exploration. The two closest waterfalls to visit if you are in the area are The Devil’s Punch Bowl to the north and Balls Falls to the south.

Google Maps Link: Beamer Falls

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Somerset House Hotel

February 10, 2024

The Somerset House Hotel was built on the south west corner of Church and Carlton Streets in 1895. It served as a hotel for 35 years until the building was sold. The hotel was renovated in 1930 by the architectural firm of Langley and Howland and was converted into a Bank of Commerce. In 1961 the largest merger in Canadian banking history took place and the Imperial Bank of Canada and the Bank of Commerce joined to become the Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce. The CIBC branch at 436 Church Street lasted until a few years ago when it was closed and the structure’s future was in question. The building now houses a Pi Co pizza restaurant and bar. On March 15, 1974 the building was listed on the City of Toronto’s register of historic buildings.

The building was designed by Frederick Henry Herbert who lived from 1866 to 1914. He was born in Bath, England and landed in Toronto in 1887. He first apprenticed with Richard Ough but in January 1889 he set up his own firm. Herbert was responsible for many of the homes of the wealthy in Toronto over the next two decades. He made extensive use of the Queen Anne architectural style as well as the Richardsonian Romanesque. Herbert is credited with designing over 75 houses, 19 commercial buildings, 6 institutional buildings including the 3 story addition to Osgood Hall, and 24 industrial buildings during his career.

The Richardsonian Romanesque style models itself on ancient Roman architecture and Medieval structures. It makes use of solid masonry stonework and bricks. Windows and doors are wide round arches which are semi-circular and standing on columns. Windows are usually recessed into the masonry. The doorways are arched and set on the top of small columns. The Somerset House Hotel has a detailed doorway with carvings above and the name set into the lintel of the second story window.

There are many other Richardsonian Romanesque buildings remaining in the city and one of our favourites is close by at 504 Jarvis Street. That mansion can be seen in our post The Mansions of Jarvis Street. It was built in 1889 for George H. Gooderham of Gooderham and Worts whose family built The Distillery District.

The image below shows the view looking north up Church Street past the Somerset House Hotel to the former Maple Leaf Gardens.

The former Sumerset House Hotel stands across the street from Maple Leaf Gardens and the roof can be seen from the upper floor of the Gardens. I remember seeing the building many times as I went to Maple Leaf Gardens to see various concerts over the years. Rush, Triumph, Alice Cooper, Jethro Tull, Coney Hatch, Motorhead, Judas Priest, Red Rider, Payolas and Tragically Hip are just a few of the acts that brought me into the area and past the old Somerset House Hotel.

This building has so far escaped the ongoing redevelopment of the downtown core and hopefully will remain for generations to come.

Related stories: The Mansions of Jarvis Street, The Distillery District

Google Maps Link: Somerset House Hotel

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Oro African Methodist Episcopal Church

Feb.3, 2024

The Oro African Methodist Episcopal Church is a National Historic Site that was designated in 2000. It is the last remaining building in an African Canadian community that was developed in Oro Township between 1830 and 1850. The idea of such a community was first proposed in 1783 by Sir Guy Carlton who was the Commander-in-Chief of British forces in North America. It was thought that integrating African Canadians into a farming community would allow them to settle into a new life in British North America. Carlton had promised freedom to slaves of the American Revolutionaries who fought on the side of the British during the American War of Independence. Many of these people also fought during the War of 1812 under Captain Runchey’s Company of Coloured Men. The 1877 County Atlas image below shows the location of the church as well as a property owned by one of the members. In an apparent act of racism, only the white settlers names are recorded on the map and so I have marked the property of George A Darkman on it as he is featured in this story as an example of the individuals that made up the church. By the time of this map, it was no longer property of the family.

Between 1819 and 1826 twenty-five black men were granted 100 acre plots of land in Oro Township by the British. Eleven of these got their grants in acknowledgement of miliary services. Of these 25 only nine of them would take up their grants and these were along a section of land on Line 1 known as Wilberforce Road. This road was named after the British Abolitionist William Wilberforce who was a politician who fought in British Parliament for the abolishment of slavery in the British Empire. Between 1829 and 1831 another 30 families moved into the community.

A one-acre parcel of land was acquired for use as a burial grounds and to build a church for the community. The church was built in 1849 out of hewn logs which were covered on the outside with clapboard about 10 years later to help keep out the wind and cold weather. By 1900 the community had declined as many of the settlers took advantage of Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation. This allowed former slaves to return to the USA and many of the settlers went in search of long lost family members. The British Methodist Episcopal Church declared the building abandoned in 1916 although services were continued until the 1920s.

The building fell into a state of disrepair and by 1947 it was in such poor condition that the local descendants of the original settlers feared that this piece of history would be lost. Efforts were made to restore it with further repairs being made in 1956 and again after vandalism in 1981 when two stolen dump trucks were smashed into the building leaving it seriously damaged.

One of the members of this church was simply known as George. He was born into slavery in Virginia sometime around 1769 and came to Canada prior to 1812. He was one of the soldiers who served in Captain Runchey’s Company of Coloured Men. White settlers were granted 200 acres but black ones were only given 100 acres. George petitioned for a land grant based on his service in the War of 1812 and was granted Lot 15 on concession 2 in Oro Township. In order to receive the land patent it was required that he have a full name and so displaying a sense of humour, he chose George A. Darkman. George left his property to his wife and two children who still lived in the USA and his will is recorded as being the first will to be probated in Oro Township. The will stated that his family had to come to the property within five years and sadly they never made it. Perhaps they were still enslaved themselves. The provision was made that if they didn’t come it would go to a white friend of George, and this is what transpired.

The church was declared a National Historic Site in 2000 but was still left to slowly deteriorate yet again. A cultural heritage assessment was conducted in 2013 and a preservation plan was put into place in 2015. The floor needed to be stabilized and the ceiling joists were reinforced. New cedar shingles were put on the roof and some of the clapboard was replaced. One of the most interesting discoveries during this restoration project was the fingerprint of one of the original settlers which was preserved in the plaster chinking between the logs.

An unmarked graveyard lies in the south part of the property and a cairn was added in 1947 to identify the names of 24 families buried there. 

This church is perhaps the oldest surviving log church from a black congregation in North America and it is fortunate that it has been preserved to help maintain the memory of this important chapter in our shared history. For further reading on early black settlers, see our feature on Griffin House. Also, enjoy our story about Turner Chapel, another African Methodist Episcopal Church. 

Related Stories: Griffin House, Turner Chapel

Google Maps link: Oro African Methodist Episcopal Church

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Erindale – Ghost Towns of the GTA

January 27, 2024

Erindale isn’t a ghost town in the traditional sense because it is now part of the larger city of Mississauga. However the older homes that remain scattered through the area provide a ghost of the town that once was. Over the years we have written eight other blogs which focus on various aspects of the local history of Erindale and links to all of these can be found at the end of this post.

Erindale began in 1825 and was originally known as Toronto. It went through several name changes being known as Credit, then Springfield and finally Springfield-on-the-Credit. In 1900 it took the name of Erindale after a local estate owned by Reverend James Magrath. The town was a major stop on the journey along Dundas Street between Hamilton and York (Toronto). It started to decline after 1855 when the railway bypassed it but saw a revival in 1879 when the Credit Valley Railway built a station nearby. A fire in 1919 destroyed much of the town but several buildings were rebuilt.

The Grange was built sometime around 1828 for Sir John Beverly Robinson who was the first Chief Justice of Upper Canada.  He was also considered to be the leader of the Family Compact which controlled the government leading to The rebellion of 1837.  The regency styled house with it’s ornate windows was indicative of the status of it’s owner.  Robinson only owned the house until 1833 when it began a rapid change of ownership until around 1910 having seen up to ten owners during this time. Then the Adamson family took up residence here and they stayed until 1973. Sometime during the Adamson years the outside of the home was given an exterior layer, or veneer, of brick from the local Cooksville Brickyards.  The building was given to the city of Mississauga by the land developers and used by the Boy Scouts until 2004.  It has now had it’s bricks removed and been fully restored to it’s original splendor.  The Heritage Resource Centre of Heritage Mississauga is now the occupant of this home.

It is generally believed that the house below is the oldest surviving building in the main area of the village. It was likely built between 1835 and 1845 by a local miller named Ira Van Valkenburgh. It may also have been built by the local carpenter named John Blair. Tradition has it that a store was once located in the house.

The Anglican Rectory was built in 1861 on the site of a former inn that had burned down. The Georgian Style manse was sold in 1960 and converted to commercial uses.

The Royal Exchange Hotel was built sometime between 1819 and 1822, although some sources say 1828, and was once known as the Halfway House. The hotel may have been 100 years old in May of 1919 when it was destroyed by the village fire and never replaced.

In 1877 the Methodist congregation commissioned a new church building as they had been meeting in the room above the Royal Exchange Hotel. The adherents felt that they should no longer meet above a building where alcohol was being sold. Somewhere around 1921 the church lost its spire and in 1925 it became the United Church. When a new building was consecrated in 1964 the building was sold to a Presbyterian congregation. This is ironic as the Presbyterians had rejected a merger with the Congregationalists and the Methodists that saw the creation of the United Church. Local residents each donated $100 and the spire was replaced in 2010.

Emmerson Taylor was the owner of the Royal Exchange Hotel and also owned a saw mill, knitting mill and a fanning mill. This last structure produced furniture and grandfather clocks. He donated the land for the Methodist Church and had this house built around 1875 to 1878. The transom over the front door identifies the home as the Froebel House.

St. Peter’s Church history begins as a home church in 1825 in the home of Colonel Peter Adamson. Construction of a white frame church began in 1826 and it was consecrated in 1828. This building lasted until 1887 when it was torn down and replaced with the present stone church. The church tower was added in 1910. A basement was hewn out under the church in 1934 to be used for the church school.

Erindale Park has a long history and at one time was known as Erindale Lake. In 1902 Erindale Light and Power Company was formed to construct an hydro electric generating plant on the Credit River at Erindale.  This large scale engineering project ran into several delays during construction and didn’t begin producing power until 1910.  A dam was constructed across the valley flooding it and creating the 125 acre Lake Erindale.  A power generating plant was built on the south end of town at the bottom of Proudfoot Street.  A tunnel was constructed to connect the two.  The power plant operated from 1910 until 1923 supplying power to Erindale and New Toronto. It was closed when Ontario Hydro began to supply the area with power from Niagara Falls.  In 1941 the lake was drained and the dam was blown up.  Between 1961 and 1965 the former lake bottom was used as a sanitary landfill.  It has since been covered over with clean soil and Erindale Park has been created.

Erindale was served by School Section #4 and has had several buildings over the years. The bell from the 1872 school has been preserved and is now housed in the 1922 replacement building. This beautiful structure was built in the Colonial Revival and Neo-Classical style of architecture. It became the Springbank Community Centre in 1957 and is now part of the University of Toronto Mississauga.

In 1919 a fire destroyed several of the older buildings on the core of the town including the Parish Hall, Post Office and the Royal Exchange Hotel. A new community Hall was constructed and has operated under a board of directors for almost 100 years. It can still be rented for private functions.

The historical community of Erindale can still be experienced via a walking tour. Heritage Mississauga has provided the details for one and a brochure can be accessed at this link: Erindale Tour. There’s a considerable amount of history in this area and you can read more in the various stories listed below.

Related stories: Winding Lane Bird Sanctuary, J. H. Pinchin Apple And Turkey Farms, Erindale Hydro Electric Dam, Erindale Powerhouse,UTM Nature Trail, Ghastly Tales Of Sawmill Valley Creek, Erindale Orchards, Credit River At Erindale

Google Maps Link: Erindale

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Cornwall Jail

January 13, 2024

The old jail in Cornwall is one of the oldest surviving public buildings in the province. I had the opportunity to visit it on the same business trip that resulted in our past two stories Prescott Waterfront and Lost Villages of the St Lawrence River. This completes a trilogy of Eastern Ontario posts. 

Indigenous People had lived along the St. Lawrence River for thousands of years before the arrival of Europeans. The first formally documented settlement of Europeans in the area occurred in 1784 when United Empire Loyalist moved north from Johnstown, New York following the end of the American Revolution. They founded New Johnstown which was later renamed Cornwall. The Eastern District known as Lunenburgh was established in 1788 and six years later an Act of the Legislature of Upper Canada authorized the erection of a court-house and gaol at Cornwall. That legislature was located in Newark (Niagara-On-The-Lake) beginning in 1792. A two-storey frame structure was built in 1802 and served until 1826 when it was destroyed by a fire.

It was replaced in 1833 with the central block of the structure that still stands on the site. The United Counties of Stormont, Dundas and Glengarry were established in 1850 and the building served as the court-house and gaol (jail). The jail opened in 1833 and just two years later the first escape was made. Four prisoners got out and were never found. The jail was expanded in 1869 by adding two new cell blocks. They were nicknamed “Windowless” and “Hell’s Angels Wing”. Clark Brown was incarcerated there for murdering his father and sister in their home in Winchester and he was executed at the jail in 1879. Other executions at the jail were James Slavin in 1892, John Vergryniuk in 1919, Thomas Collison in 1925 and in 1954 Peter Balcombe. Also in 1954 Henry Seguin was to be executed but committed suicide first.

The jail was modernized in 1971 with security cameras, showers, toilets and electronic locks. In 1985 a general population cell block and a female section was added. A final escape was made in 1995 but the convict was caught in less than an hour as he went to visit his dying grandfather. The jail was decommissioned in 2002 and the inmates transferred to Ottawa.

The aerial view below was taken from the information board at the jail and shows the outdoor exercise yards.

Like many jails, the Cornwall jail had its share of deaths over the decades. People died from suicide, illness, torture and violence as well as the five executions by hanging. There are still many unclaimed bodies which are buried beneath the former exercise yard. They were also buried under what is now the parking lot. During the 1985 expansion of the jail, several bodies were dug up including those of Henry Seguin and Peter Balcombe. It is estimated that there is around 100 bodies buried on the site. This has led to many claims of paranormal activity in the old building and many “ghost hunters” have come to seek evidence.

Tours of the jail are conducted during the summer months, usually between May and August. Check their website at www.historicsdgjail.com for more details and see for yourself if you feel any spirits during your visit.

Related Stories: Prescott Waterfront, Lost Villages of the St Lawrence River

Google Maps link: Cornwall Jail

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